Happy Birthday Wayne-O! A true soul surfer and shaper – perhaps the nicest teddy bear of a guy you’ll ever meet – Wayne began surfing in the “golden era” of SoCal surfboard building. Mentored by Dan Bendiksen (head shaper of Bing Surfboards) at age 9, Wayne would later be influenced by the likes of Renny Yater and the late John Bradbury. A few years ago Wayne was able to pay tribute back to the master shapers as he won the “Sacred Craft” shape-off honoring Renny.
A painted Japanese Daruma is in the shaping room at the far left in the photo above. Hand-made by a monk and given as a gift, Wayne painted the the first eye while making a wish. Once the wish is fulfilled he’ll paint in the other eye and bring the daruma back to the monastery where it will be burned in a ceremony.
Just over 5 years ago, Wayne was riding Rincon in one of the biggest swells in recent history. Barreling down a double-overhead tube, the wave exploded over him, driving him down into the depths. His body went numb as he felt his neck crack. Temporarily paralyzed, he was at the mercy of the waves breaking over him. Dragged into the bay and onto shore, he didn’t realize the extent of the damage till much later…he continued surfing with a ticking time-bomb, not realizing the damage between his fifth and sixth vertebrae. He reflects back on those weeks that he was still surfing overhead waves, realizing now that one whiplash would have paralyzed him for good. Months later with the support of the surfing community and the late Kevin Brown, extraordinary physical therapist, Wayne underwent a gauntlet of surgeries and rehab. His doctor still shudders when Wayne tells him surf’s up at Rincon – and that’s where you’ll find him, a big grin on his face.
The Elder Athletes series is a personal project that began in January 2013 - A new series on athletes and those that have had a passion for their sport for scores of years…and still kick butt of those younger than them..click the “Elder Athletes” tag below to see more.
